using_rail_filing_jigs
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| using_rail_filing_jigs [2024/11/15 11:56] – martinwynne | using_rail_filing_jigs [2025/06/25 20:41] (current) – martinwynne | ||
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| - | font-size:23px; | + | ===== Using the Templot |
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| - | Templot& | + | |
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| - | using the rail filing jigs | + | |
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| These rail-filing jigs can be 3D-printed for any crossing angle 1: 0.5 to 1:20 and for any REA semi-curved switch size A to F and corresponding straight switches.< | These rail-filing jigs can be 3D-printed for any crossing angle 1: 0.5 to 1:20 and for any REA semi-curved switch size A to F and corresponding straight switches.< | ||
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| - | The overall size for most angles is 90mm x 50mm. The thickness can be set as required -- the default is 19mm.<br /> | + | The overall size of the crossing jigs for most angles is 90mm x 50mm. The thickness can be set as required -- the default is 19mm. The switch jigs are necessarily longer but can be printed diagonally on the bed if necessary on most FDM printers.<br /> |
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| - | The large opening in the middle allows | + | The large opening in the middle allows |
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| Using all-threads with double wing nuts makes it easy to hand tighten without needing any other tools ( screwdriver, | Using all-threads with double wing nuts makes it easy to hand tighten without needing any other tools ( screwdriver, | ||
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| Unless it is a very expensive file, it is unlikely to be dead straight. Looking along it you will likely detect that it is fractionally curved. If so, use the convex side for best results on the jig.<br /> | Unless it is a very expensive file, it is unlikely to be dead straight. Looking along it you will likely detect that it is fractionally curved. If so, use the convex side for best results on the jig.<br /> | ||
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| - | While filing, brush away the filings between every few strokes. The file itself won't harm the jig, but rubbing metal filings into the surface will do. Fully disassemble the jig after each use, so that you can remove any filings or other debris from the slots. The jigs will last for a great many filed rails, but being plastic, they need to be treated with care -- otherwise you will soon be printing a replacement. :(<br /> | + | While filing, brush away the filings between every few strokes. The file itself won't harm the jig, but rubbing metal filings into the surface will do. Don't rub the file rapidly backwards and forwards. Make a firm forward cut, then lift the file away to brush away the filings.< |
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| + | You can let the back corner get worn away by frequent use without affecting further use of the jig.<br /> | ||
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| + | Fully disassemble the jig after each use, so that you can remove any filings or other debris from the slots. The jigs will last for a great many filed rails, but being plastic, they need to be treated with care -- otherwise you will soon be printing a replacement. | ||
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| More information about the above diagram is at:<br /> | More information about the above diagram is at:<br /> | ||
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| Do not tighten the bolt too much at this end of the jig, just firm it up by hand. Otherwise the rail may be forced up out of the slot.<br /> | Do not tighten the bolt too much at this end of the jig, just firm it up by hand. Otherwise the rail may be forced up out of the slot.<br /> | ||
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| + | This is the blade back jig for size B switch blade < | ||
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| The process of filing the back of the blade may have caused the rail to curve slightly where it is filed. If so, gently straighten it in your fingers before doing the front of the blade.< | The process of filing the back of the blade may have caused the rail to curve slightly where it is filed. If so, gently straighten it in your fingers before doing the front of the blade.< | ||
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| - | The jig allows you to file across the head of the rail at 20 degrees, producing a sharp tip at the toe and leaving most of the rail foot intact. Make sure you have the correct rail the correct way up. The filed end will be sharp -- keep some Elastoplast handy. :)<br /> | + | The jig allows you to file across the head of the rail at 20 degrees, producing a sharp tip at the toe and leaving most of the rail foot intact. Make sure you have the correct rail the correct way up. The filed end will be sharp -- keep some Elastoplast handy. |
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| Here is a handy chart of blade planing lengths and deflection angles for different switches:< | Here is a handy chart of blade planing lengths and deflection angles for different switches:< | ||
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| More prototype info about switch blades is at:<br /> | More prototype info about switch blades is at:<br /> | ||
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| - | 4. The final task is to make a very slight bend in the switch blade at that position, towards the centre of the track, until the filed top front running edge aligns in a straight line with the remainder of the rail. This is best seen by eyeing along the rail, but don't poke yourself in the eye with the sharp tip.<br /> | + | 4. The final task is to make a very slight |
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| For the curved switch blade, do this first before curving the rail to match the template.< | For the curved switch blade, do this first before curving the rail to match the template.< | ||
using_rail_filing_jigs.1731671781.txt.gz · Last modified: 2024/11/15 11:56 by martinwynne